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We decided that we might get a cheaper room by switching, since the town appeared to be empty. So before breakfast we just went out down the street into the next hotel which happened to be one of the hotels listed in the book, Mil Reis, run by a very old couple. We asked to see a room, but it was smaller and cost also €30. When we seemed reluctant, the old main lowered the price to €25 and we agreed to stay. Only later did Claudia remind me that we could have postponed a decision and gone back to the first hotel, asking for a lower rate. Oh well.

Sunbathing We walked out to the lighthouse, along some footpaths, and finally found a cozy little bay with a small beach all to ourselves, protected by the wind and with decent surf. Long time no see, Portuguese beaches! Hot sun, cool wind, icy water! In winter, the water is 14°C, in summer 16°C on the west coast, so if you find a protected piece of beach, you will get very hot and sun-burned; as soon as you get up, the wind cools you down and you'll forget all about sun-screen. By the time you reach the water, however, you will be cool enough to not want to swim in 16°C water, so you end up just wetting your feet.

The protection from the wind had a drawback: Little harmless flies crawled all over us, getting on our nerves… But what a feeling, to dig your little toes into the sand, and have the salty breeze blow through your hair…


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